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Saturday, October 26, 2013

The joy of slang

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-24669828

The joy of slang

atm with cockney slang
Slang such as ain't, innit and coz has been banned from a school in south London. Author Charles Nevin celebrates modern slang and revisits phrases that have fallen out of fashion. Cor lummy!
Please do not misunderstand me. I love modern slang. It's as colourful, clever, and disguised from outsiders as slang ever was and is supposed to be. Take bare, for example, one of a number of slang terms recently banned by a London school. It means "a lot of", as in "there's bare people here", and is the classic concealing reversal of the accepted meaning that you also find in wicked, bad andcool. Victorian criminals did essentially the same with back slang, reversing words so that boy became yob and so on.
The other banned words are equally interesting. Extra, for example, mischievously stresses the superfluous in its conventional definition, as in "reading the whole book is extra, innit?". And that much disapproved innit? is in fact the n'est-ce pas? English has needed since the Normans forgot to bring it with them.

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Cockney rhyming slang survives well beyond its original inspiration, as in the currently popular marvin for starving hungry”
And who would not admire rinsed for something worn out or overused - chirpsing for flirting, bennin for doubled-up with laughter, or wi-five for an electronically delivered high-five?My bad, being new, sounds more sincere than old, tired, I'm sorry (Sos never quite cut it).
Mouse potato for those who spend too much time on PCs is as striking as salmon and aisle salmon for people who will insist on going against the flow in crowds or supermarket aisles. Manstanding is what husbands and partners typically do while their wives or partners are actually getting on with the shopping. Excellent.
Nor is tradition ignored. Words that have fallen out of fashion are revived - vexed, for example, is angry. Cockney rhyming slang survives well beyond its original inspiration, as in the currently popular marvin for starving hungry, after Hank Marvin of The Shadows, who, without wishing to be unkind, hasn't been that well-known outside his household for a good 25 years. Which, even so, is not as long as it is for a ruby(curry), after Ruby Murray, 1950s pop star.
CurryRuby Murray
But (and it was always coming) I do have a sadness to report - the loss of much-loved old friends of phrases that have fallen victim to time, change, and two further factors - first, the current need for brevity in modern communications, and second, the much wider acceptance of words previously considered too uncouth for public exchange.
Being generally opposed to censorship, I've no quibble with the latter, except when it becomes monotonous and repetitious, or even more crucially, when it drives out charm and variety. Consider, for example, this expression of surprise from Jeremy Paxman recently on University Challenge: "Oh my godfathers!". It's a phrase which was clearly devised to disguise the then unacceptable "Oh my God!" and so is equally clearly now redundant. But that's the charm of it, as with lawks a mercy (Lord have mercy), cor lummy (Lord, love me) and other such "minced oaths". I'm fond, too, of Lord luv a duck, whose delightful obscurity has defeated even Michael Quinion's excellent World Wide Words blog but is a splendidly satisfying thing to say. Try it.

More from the Magazine

Why do teenagers use slang?
"Slang is about people creating an identity, and that's what teenagers have done," says says Tony Thorne, editor of the Dictionary of Contemporary Slang.
"They have created their own language and are proud to use it."
Your family must have some similar sayings handed down. My aunt was particularly fond of this, in response to some piece of bad behaviour: "Aren't people the giddy limit?" My grandmother, wishing to discourage the nagging questioning of grandchildren anxious to know what they'd overheard and weren't supposed to, used to say, "Raros to meddlers!".
I'm now lost to know where they came from, although I glean through the magic of the internet that another exasperation-venter, Strewth Meredithcan be traced precisely to a music hall sketch, The Bailiffs, first performed by Fred Kitchen in 1907.
Blimey O'Reilly is even earlier, from a song performed by Pat Rooney in the 1880s. My mother's frequent request to slow down, gently Bentley, is much later, from the perhaps equally forgotten Australian comedian, Dick Bentley, in the 1950s. Most marvellously, my grandmother's solicitous greeting, "How's your poor feet?" turns out to be a song written in 1851 in response to the miles people were walking round Crystal Palace at the Great Exhibition.
I don't want us all to start sounding like Dick Van Dyke in Mary Poppins, or indeed, Boris Johnson. Nor do I say all past imprecations were that good. By the cringe, a schoolboy favourite of mine, should be left where also lieswinging and dodgy, 1960s catchphrases of Norman Vaughan, another performer to whom time has been unkind.
But I do think we would be much more interesting to listen to if we put some effort into achieving what Reader's Digest used to call "more picturesque speech".
Complete works of ShakespeareBrush up your Shakespeare?
Modern insult, for example, is terribly thin stuff compared with the master, William Shakespeare. Whole websites are devoted to the staggering range and force of Bardic bad-mouthing. My current favourite is: "You peasant swain! You whoreson malt-horse drudge!"
And if you're concerned to be brief, just initialise, as with OMG. BO'R, for instance, or RTM.
I'm not entirely convinced, though, that we're quite ready for the return of Jimmy Young's TTFN.

Doner kebab inventeor passed away


Doner kebab 'inventor' Kadir Nurman dies in Berlin

Doner restaurant in Ankara, Turkey (10 July 2012)Meat carved from a skewer had long been a popular choice in Turkey - Kadir Nurman's innovation was to serve it in a flat bread

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The Turkish immigrant credited with inventing the doner kebab has died in Berlin aged 80.
Kadir Nurman set up a stall in West Berlin in 1972, selling grilled meat and salad inside a flat bread.
He had noticed the fast pace of city life and thought busy Berliners might like a meal they could carry with them.
While there are other possible "doner inventors," Mr Nurman's contribution was recognised by the Association of Turkish Doner Manufacturers in 2011.
The combination of juicy meat, sliced from a rotating skewer, with all the trimmings and optional chilli sauce, has since become a firm fast-food favourite in Germany, and elsewhere.
An employee of a doner kebab stand serves a doner sandwich in Berlin, Germany (23 February 2013)A doner kebab with all the trimmings
According to the Berlin-based Association of Turkish Doner Manufacturers in Europe, there are now 16,000 doner outlets in Germany.
More than 1,000 exist in Berlin to tempt peckish late-night revellers on the capital's streets.
German companies producing the meat and the machinery for grilling supply 80% of the EU market, the BBC's Steve Evans reports from Berlin.
Mr Nurman, who emigrated to Germany in 1960, did not patent his invention, and thus did not particularly profit from the doner's subsequent success.
But in a 2011 interview with the Frankfurter Rundschau, he expressed little bitterness.
He was happy that so many Turkish people were able to make a living from doners, he said, and that millions of people ate them.

Friday, October 25, 2013

Why bitter drinks?

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-24616185

 

Why do some people prefer bitter drinks?

Bitters
There's been a wave of popularity for drinks like the Aperol spritz, the Negroni, and a host of cocktails flavoured with "bitters". Why are people turning their backs on sweet cocktails in favour of a bitter taste?
The last two decades have seen an extraordinary resurgence in cocktail-making on both sides of the Atlantic, with everything from Cointreau-sweetened Cosmopolitans to sugary Mojitos being drunk in vast quantities.
But there is now a definite trend towards bitter drinks. People are ordering whisky or gin-based drinks paired with vermouths. And there is growing interest in the US, UK and other European nations in Italian amari.
These complex, herbal, bittersweet drinks, with names like Averna, Ramazzotti, Montenegro and Fernet Branca, are usually consumed as aperitivi or digestivi - drinks thought to either encourage the appetite before dinner or help with digestion afterwards.
Bitter tasting cocktails are having a renaissance
Their bitter mixer cousins, Cynar, Campari and Aperol, are increasingly being used in cocktails.
Aperol - based on bitter orange and rhubarb and containing classic bitter ingredients like gentian and cinchona (a source of quinine) - has rocketed in popularity in recent years following a push by owner Gruppo Campari.

Pour it like a pro: Cocktails from BBC Food

Old fashioned cocktails
Sales rose 156% in the UK in 2012 and 56% in the US. This year's figures, announced soon, are expected to be even bigger. A poster campaign in the UK encourages people to try an Aperol spritz - prosecco sparkling wine and soda water mixed with Aperol.
A fundamental point of the spritz is its low alcohol content. Aperol's slogan is "poco alcolico", roughly meaning a little bit alcoholic.
"I think the Aperol spritz was probably the most asked-for drink in the outdoor areas of most decent bars in London this summer," says World Duty Free mixologist Charlie McCarthy.
Laura Tallo, from Nonna's Italian Cucina in Bath, says many British drinkers have returned after holidays in Italy, having seen certain drinks paired with tavola calda - the selection of hot, freshly-baked food.
"People are definitely beginning to embrace the Italian custom of drinking aperitifs. We have seen a definite trend emerging of people choosing classic Italian pre-dinner drinks such as an Aperol spritz, Negroni [equal parts Campari, gin and sweet vermouth], Americano or Martini," she says.

The expert view

Brooklyn-based author Brad Thomas Parsons, wrote Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All:
"Bitters, as a term, is more like an umbrella for a variety of liquid seasonings. From citrus to aromatic to floral and beyond. There should be a bittering agent to be a proper bitters but bitters are concentrated and not meant to be consumed on their own.
"Amaro, on the other hand-potable spirits like Cynar, Fernet, and Averna-are meant to be imbibed on their own (or as an ingredient in a drink). These are definitely bitter to the taste-ranging from the soft end of bittersweet to bracingly medicinal."
Such drinks are not to everyone's taste, of course. While many Italians have been brought up around the tradition of amari, they can baffle non-Italian palates at first taste.
"They say of a Negroni the first two or three sips you despise, and after you have had two or three drinks you start to like it," says Tom Ross, bars manager of the Polpo restaurant group in London.
The taste of Fernet Branca - vaguely minty but with pungent undertones of cough medicine - is so powerful that comedian Bill Cosby constructed a seven-minute anecdote around his initial horror on encountering the drink in Italy. And yet Fernet is loved by many, being drunk with cola in Argentina and - accompanied by a separate shot of ginger beer - known as the "bartender's handshake" in San Francisco.
One of the first recorded definitions of a cocktail was in a New York journal in 1803, which classified it as a mixture of any "spirituous liquor", with water, sugar and "bitters", known at the time as a bittered sling.
bartender pouring bitters
You can find the descendant of these traditional bitters (with the term typically referring to both singular and plural) in any decent bar in the UK or US. There'll be a rather unusual bottle among the others - small with a yellow top and an oversized label covered in small print. It is the world's most famous cocktail bitters, Angostura.

A matter of taste

Tongue
  • Humans can detect five basic tastes - sweet, sour, bitter, salty and umami (savoury); some evidence that fat may be sixth taste
  • Bitter tastes include coffee, beer, unsweetened cocoa and citrus peel
  • Sour is indicative of acidity; taste found in citrus fruit, wine, and sour milk
This bitters is the key ingredient in pink gin, the traditional officers' cocktail in the Royal Navy. It's also the bedrock of famous cocktails, including the Old Fashioned, beloved of Mad Men's Don Draper, and the Manhattan. A supply shortage in 2009 caused panic throughout the world's bartending community, according to McCarthy, and prompted bartenders to start making their own.
The current wave of speakeasy-type bars inspired by the prohibition years in the US, has prompted interest in traditional and hitherto forgotten cocktails. This in turn has prompted demand for more unusual bitters.
Bob Petrie, of Bob's Bitters, started in 2005 when he was approached by the Dorchester Hotel to create a range.
Traditional bitters are very complex, with aromatic flavours brought out from a combination of barks, roots, herbs, and spices by macerating them in alcohol. He looked at pairing them with the "botanicals" in gin, and came up with a range including cardamom, chocolate, coriander, ginger, grapefruit, lavender, liquorice, orange and mandarin, peppermint and vanilla.
"Single flavours are a lot easier for the barman as it gives a lot more scope," Petrie says.
bitter bottles
"What they can do with mine is mix and match."
Rochdale-born US celebrity mixologist Gary Regan is another who was prompted to make his own to replicate the orange bitters in some old cocktail recipes.
"When I realised it was hard to get good ones I decided to make my own. I stole a recipe from the Gentleman's Companion of 1939. I had about four different trials and eventually got something I liked.

Bitter history

Angostura bark
  • Prepared by infusion or distillation, using ingredients such as angostura bark (pictured), cascarilla, cassia, gentian, orange peel, and quinine
  • Angostura bitters first sold in 1824 as cure for sea sickness and stomach maladies, named after Venezuelan town where it was formulated
  • Quinine derived from cinchona tree bark; used as treatment for malaria, lupus and arthritis and in very dilute form in tonic water and bitter lemon
"This shift towards bitter has been going on for eight years," Regan estimates. "[But] most bitters aren't that bitter. They taste herbal. In fact, they are a bit on the sweet side sometimes."
Fee Brothers in Rochester, New York, has been making bitters since 1863, with a short break for prohibition. Joe and Ellen Fee are the fourth generation. Their 92-year-old father still regularly visits the plant.
Joe Fee says there has been a marked increase in sales over the past seven years. "Just about anything can be made into a bitters. They are your spice rack behind the bar."
"I am the Willy Wonka of the cocktail mixers," boasts Ellen Fee, who conjures up the new flavours. "I like to think in terms of what flavour is already bitter. Cocoa powder is bitter, cranberry is bitter. You add to that and make it more interesting."
The plethora of these cocktail tinctures and potions shows the tastes of aficionados have shifted. But there are other flagbearers for a more bitter palate.
Many James Bond fans attempt to recreate the Vesper Martini from Casino Royale. Bond asks for it to be made with strong gin, vodka and the bitter Kina Lillet. Lillet took out much of the bitter quinine in the 1980s and fans tend to use Cocchi Americano Italian vermouth instead.
And the Queen has followed in her mother's footsteps by drinking gin and Dubonnet - the quinine-bittered French aperitif. Just a few years ago, her choice was seen as unusual.
Now she's part of an established trend.